Arctic Dreams

By Ned Vasquez

 

Ned VFor many years, dating back even to my childhood, I have dreamed of spending time in the Alaskan wilderness. In August, 2019 this dream became a reality when my middle daughter and I spent 9 days rafting the Kongakut River in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

Our trip was organized through a guiding company based in Fairbanks. Our group consisted of 6 clients and 2 guides and we were fortunate to have a highly compatible group. The guiding company did an excellent job of orienting us to the nature of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and ensured that we were as minimally impactful as possible.

 

The immensity of Alaska was quickly apparent as we journeyed to our put-in point, as it required a flight of more than 3 hours in a small bush plane from Fairbanks, initially flying over a seemingly endless expanse of rolling, open land and then navigating a narrow Brooks Range valley above the Kongakut. Once we unloaded our gear on a gravel bar and the plane departed, the isolation of the Arctic Refuge became palpable. For the next 9 days we saw no one except for 2 caribou hunters that camped near us on the first night. It was quickly apparent that we were very much on our own, especially if the weather should become adverse or one of our party was injured. Fortunately, neither of those things occurred.

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in the “fall” is notable for wonderful colors as the tundra vegetation turns many shades of red and yellow. Our days were chilly, with highs in the 40s to low 50s and with intermittent light rain and cold winds blowing south from the Arctic Ocean; the sun made only occasional brief appearances. We rafted north for 4-5 hours per day and had many opportunities to wander the tundra and abrupt mountains surrounding the Kongakut. Apart from game trails, the landscape is devoid of paths and hiking can be very challenging due to wet ground and ankle-wrenching tussocks. Once one starts to climb, however, the terrain is a bit smoother and easier to navigate. Gaining higher ground provided beautiful vistas of snowy peaks above and the braided river valley below.

Although our human contacts were minimal during our Arctic adventure, we were far from isolated from other life, which included easily caught and delicious Dolly Varden, golden eagles, a few caribou, a great bull moose, Dall sheep, large Grizzly bears, a massive musk ox, and evidence of wolves. On our last night, as we celebrated in camp, an immense bear settled down on the mountain above us and appeared to be scrutinizing our festivities! The bruin’s tracks were present near our take-out point the next morning.

Our last hike of the trip occurred on a wet, foggy day. As we crested our high point, the horizon cleared just long enough for us to see the coastal plain and the Arctic Ocean, a wonderful reward for our exertions.

As readers are undoubtedly aware, last month President Biden issued an executive order temporarily halting the Trump Administration’s oil and gas leasing program on the Coastal Plain of the Artic Refuge. Hopefully the Refuge will ultimately be protected.

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is an unparalleled national treasure and it is incumbent on all of us to learn about it and do everything possible to protect it for future generations. Our country became the globe’s leading producer of oil in 2019 and we now produce more than we consume. Especially in that context (not to mention the myriad of other reasons), why would we desecrate the last best wilderness that our country possesses? I learned about “stewardship” from Aldo Leopold and that is what is required now for Arctic Refuge to remain in perpetuity. Now is the time for humility rather than hubris!

 

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge


Ned Vasquez was born in Seattle but grew up in Kansas and Iowa. He moved to Montana in 1986, in part to fulfill boyhood dreams of wilderness, mountains, hiking, and backpacking that simply never went away. While practicing family medicine for nearly 35 years, Ned took every possible opportunity to explore Montana wildernesses (large and small case W) and continues to do so today. He has also been blessed to visit and hike in Alaska, Patagonia, New Zealand, Bhutan, and Nepal. Ned has 3 daughters and 5 grandchildren and delights in getting all of them into Montana’s beautiful landscapes. Ned retired from family medicine in 2019 and is applying some of his greatly appreciated flexible time to Wilderness Watch projects.

 

 

Editor's notes:

“Wilderness Experienced” is our shared stories and musings about recent experiences in our nation's Wildernesses. Stories focus on the virtues of Wilderness and/or challenges facing the National Wilderness Preservation System. We want to hear your story! Learn more and submit a story.

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An Art of Conducting Oneself
Arctic Time
 

Comments 33

Guest
Guest - T. Thompson on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 15:25

Save the Wilderness ! Once it’s gone or chopped up it’s gone forever.

Save the Wilderness ! Once it’s gone or chopped up it’s gone forever.
Guest
Guest - gregory battaglia on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 14:02

The Western states-the most wildfire prone region in the nation-must get out of denial mode and wise up to the fact that over development and over immigration (like global over population) are the hottest fuels driving climate change. Revise and enforce appropriate zoning ordinances and expose the often strong connections between elected officials and developers and realtors who care more about their sales volume than what affects the often aggressive behavior of their industries
have on deforestation, heat emissions, species extinction housing prices, energy costs, taxation and other negative aspects of growth driven economics. Globally, communities have to be taught the direct connection between >> 100 million more every year since the early 60s and climate change-over 85% of which is human induced, say the majority of expert opinion. And forever get the word out for a 2 kid limit per union, AND zero kids for any reunions. Do not expect to achieve any meaningful and lasting change without confronting ALL of these realities.

The Western states-the most wildfire prone region in the nation-must get out of denial mode and wise up to the fact that over development and over immigration (like global over population) are the hottest fuels driving climate change. Revise and enforce appropriate zoning ordinances and expose the often strong connections between elected officials and developers and realtors who care more about their sales volume than what affects the often aggressive behavior of their industries have on deforestation, heat emissions, species extinction housing prices, energy costs, taxation and other negative aspects of growth driven economics. Globally, communities have to be taught the direct connection between >> 100 million more every year since the early 60s and climate change-over 85% of which is human induced, say the majority of expert opinion. And forever get the word out for a 2 kid limit per union, AND zero kids for any reunions. Do not expect to achieve any meaningful and lasting change without confronting ALL of these realities.
Guest
Guest - Cristina on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 18:45

Good information. Thank you for posting. The side effects of increasing population numbers is not discussed enough. People are vehement and opinionated about a lot of things, but not soaring population numbers. People don't like being stuck in traffic, but never connect it to population numbers. It's as if the cars themselves were all to blame.

Good information. Thank you for posting. The side effects of increasing population numbers is not discussed enough. People are vehement and opinionated about a lot of things, but not soaring population numbers. People don't like being stuck in traffic, but never connect it to population numbers. It's as if the cars themselves were all to blame.
Guest
Guest - Debbie McKevitt on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 16:48

You got that right! Thanks for saying it like it is!

You got that right! Thanks for saying it like it is!
Guest
Guest - Ruthie on Wednesday, 24 February 2021 03:58

WELL SAID ! This analysis actually applies to many countries ,over consumption, over population ,greed driven economics etc.Environmental Education should now be on the curriculum of every school everywhere to nurture respect & value of the Natural World

WELL SAID ! This analysis actually applies to many countries ,over consumption, over population ,greed driven economics etc.Environmental Education should now be on the curriculum of every school everywhere to nurture respect & value of the Natural World
Guest
Guest - Harriet Greene on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 13:59

So good to be back in the wilderness with you. I have backpacked for thirty years with my daughter and have written a book about it. They were the best years of my life. Thank you for telling your story.

So good to be back in the wilderness with you. I have backpacked for thirty years with my daughter and have written a book about it. They were the best years of my life. Thank you for telling your story.
Guest
Guest - Debbie McKevitt on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 13:51

Thanks so much for sharing the story of your adventure! Although I don't travel, I enjoy reading about and seeing photos of our (and global) natural treasures. I've been reading "Nature's Best Hope" by Doug Tallamy. I highly recommend it for anyone who's interested in fighting climate change and increasing/conserving biodiversity through personal, do-able, pleasurable, and rewarding action in your own yard and/or community spaces. Be part of creating America's "Homegrown National Park" -- everywhere! I appreciate all of you good people who love, respect, and protect our planet and its environment.

Thanks so much for sharing the story of your adventure! Although I don't travel, I enjoy reading about and seeing photos of our (and global) natural treasures. I've been reading "Nature's Best Hope" by Doug Tallamy. I highly recommend it for anyone who's interested in fighting climate change and increasing/conserving biodiversity through personal, do-able, pleasurable, and rewarding action in your own yard and/or community spaces. Be part of creating America's "Homegrown National Park" -- everywhere! I appreciate all of you good people who love, respect, and protect our planet and its environment.
Guest
Guest - Joseph Porterfield on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 13:13

Lovely story, which makes me want to follow the same dream - hike in the wilderness of Alaska. Thank you for sharing Mr. Vasquez.

Lovely story, which makes me want to follow the same dream - hike in the wilderness of Alaska. Thank you for sharing Mr. Vasquez.
Guest
Guest - Sandy Rhein on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 13:11

The Arctic Refuge should be preserved in its present wild state. We need to protect the people and animals that live there. To protect our planet from climate change, drilling needs to stop. Fossil fuels are ruining our planet.

The Arctic Refuge should be preserved in its present wild state. We need to protect the people and animals that live there. To protect our planet from climate change, drilling needs to stop. Fossil fuels are ruining our planet.
Guest
Guest - Todd Reich on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 12:46

Funny how when you start thinking of doing certain things you seem to constantly see that thing appear! I am just starting to plan a trip down the Alatna River in Gates of Arctic, so this story just gives me even more push to keep the process moving! Thanks.

Funny how when you start thinking of doing certain things you seem to constantly see that thing appear! I am just starting to plan a trip down the Alatna River in Gates of Arctic, so this story just gives me even more push to keep the process moving! Thanks.
Guest
Guest - E. Eng on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 12:36

There's need for more attention to your issues, by the general public (esp. VIPs) in the US! ---2/23/2021---

There's need for more attention to your issues, by the general public (esp. VIPs) in the US! ---2/23/2021---
Guest
Guest - Sharon Furlong on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 12:26

You lucky person! What a wonderful report on a once-in-a-lifetime trip. And to have your daughter with you! I loved how you described what you were seeing and doing and did so in such a way that I could almost feel the vastness, the tussocks reaching for your feet, the crisp air and deep, rich colors. I would love to do this kind of adventure before I am too old to enjoy it.....thank you for allowing us to experience it in this way!

You lucky person! What a wonderful report on a once-in-a-lifetime trip. And to have your daughter with you! I loved how you described what you were seeing and doing and did so in such a way that I could almost feel the vastness, the tussocks reaching for your feet, the crisp air and deep, rich colors. I would love to do this kind of adventure before I am too old to enjoy it.....thank you for allowing us to experience it in this way!
Guest
Guest - Dan O'Keefe (website) on Tuesday, 23 February 2021 12:21

Ned Vasquez might want to give a tip of his cap to Barry Lopez for his magnificent book "Arctic Dreams", which he was obviously referencing.

Ned Vasquez might want to give a tip of his cap to Barry Lopez for his magnificent book "Arctic Dreams", which he was obviously referencing.
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Friday, 29 March 2024

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